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About a year
ago, back in the spring of 2002, I returned to Transylvania.
I had already visited this splendid region thirty years before and,
naturally, I stopped to visit the famous Black Church of Brasov
(Kronstadt),1 an obligatory halt for anyone interested in carpets.
Even then, although I had little knowledge and my carpet studies
were just beginning, I had been deeply impressed (fig.1). Such a
lot of antique Turkish rugs hanging on the walls and between the
pews, hanging from the balconies, laid out like festoons around
the columns and on the high backs of the chorus stalls and in the
apse! My first reaction was to ask myself why there were so many:
I was in an Evangelical church, not a mosque, in which a rug has
a ritual and liturgical role to play, and is indeed called a Ôprayer
rugÕ. At the time, I could find no satisfactory answer, apart
from the usual tales that were told of adventurous merchants returning
from the East laden with precious goods, and leaving a rug as a
gift for their safe return to Christian lands as a sort of ex-voto
in the first church they came to. ...
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